After visiting the beauty of Trip to Sicily: Part 2, we will continue our virtual trip to visit 3 places that I would consider off the beaten path. These places are rich in natural beauty, history, wine and great food.
First, we will start by driving over to the west coast and up to Marsala, a cute town that is home to a few of the most renowned Sicilian vineyards as well as an area that is famous for the natural production of salt.
We will then drive on the north coast, stopping by Erice, an ancient medieval town, and on to San Vito Lo Capo, well known for its azure waters and great beach.
Marsala
Marsala is a charming town, with several squares surrounded by baroque buildings and churches. In addition to strolling around the town, the main attractions here are the surrounding vineyards and famous Marsala wineries.
Marsala is a fortified wine that can be dry or sweet. Dry Marsala is often served to cleanse the palate between a pasta dish and a meat dish, or enjoyed with aged cheese such as Grana or Gorgonzola. The sweet Marsala can be served as a dessert wine and is also used in many dessert recipes, including Tiramisu. Marsala wine is also used in cooking, particularly for the famous veal escalope in Marsala sauce, which is made with onions, garlic and mushrooms.
The most important Marsala vineyards are Florio and Pellegrino. Florio, founded in 1832, is the oldest winery in Italy that makes Marsala. An interesting note about Florio is that the family sponsored an international car race in Sicily at the beginning of the 20th century, known as Targa Florio, for which the artist Lalique designed the trophy. The Florio winery is housed in a beautiful old building that offers food pairing as well as Marsala tastings. Pellegrino is another famous Marsala winery, which is housed today in a modern building, but is still family-owned since its founding in 1880.
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Marsala -
Marsala at Night
The Marsala area is not just famous for Marsala wine as there are a number of notable vineyards growing other varieties. One of the most famous is Donnafugata, a family-owned business for five generations. The company’s name “Donnafugata”, which means “fugitive woman”, came from the novel “Il Gattopardo”, which tells the story of a queen that hid herself where the vineyards are today located. This vineyard offers an interesting tasting tour that pairs the wines with different traditional Sicilian dishes, helping you better understand the notes of the wines.
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Florio -
Pellegrino
The area surrounding Marsala is remarkable not only for wines but also for the production of salt, which has a rich history and has been a fundamental part in the economy of the area. You can see a classic example of the lovely salt pans at Saline Ettore e Infersa. Here you will find an ancient windmill and tall piles of salt, and there is a great museum where you will learn about the tradition and the production process.
The area is quite picturesque and it is worth having an aperitive at “Mammacaura” opposite the Salina, where you can enjoy the sunset and the view of the sea, while sipping your Aperol Spritz. A highly recommended way to cap off a day of sightseeing!
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Saline Ettore & Infersa -
Windmill At Saline Ettore & Infersa
As you can see, there is a lot to see both in and around Marsala – it is helpful having a driver for a day of exploration around the area, especially if you are doing wine tastings.
Marsala has quite a few rustic options for dining. Consider dining at Il Gallo e l’Innamorata, which has an extensive menu with tasty pasta dishes. In terms of accommodation, I recommend Carmine, which is a charming restored convent with a nice backyard where you can enjoy your breakfast. The service is very professional, and they will help you to arrange your tours around Marsala.
If you have more time, consider visiting Favignana island, which is part of the Egadi islands. You could easily spend a few days there and enjoy the blue sea and the nature. Marsala has definitely been a discovery during our trip to Sicily!
Erice
Our next stop is Erice, though we have a great layover on the way. Cantine Firriato is beautiful resort, hidden among sun-kissed vineyards, where you will have the opportunity to sit and enjoy one of the best wine tastings in terms of quality and variety of wines. Cantine Firriato is around halfway between Marsala and Erice.
Erice is a wonderfully preserved medieval town that is magically perched on the top of the mountain Eryx, from which it took its name. While you can drive up the mountain, I suggest you take the funicular up from the base of the mountain. Erice seems to have its own unique climate, as it is always covered by clouds even when it is sunny all around the province. The town has many beautiful churches, monasteries and castles, and you can enjoy amazing views of the valley below.
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Erice -
Erice
Erice is also home of one of the most famous pastry shops of Sicily, Maria Grammatico, a perfect pit stop to get a sugar high that will keep you going! This is a great place to sample some of Sicily’s finest Genovese (custard filled) cookies, artistic marzipan and decadent cannoli.
San Vito Lo Capo
We continue our drive north along the coast until we reach the northwest tip of Sicily – San Vito Lo Capo. The water here is crystal blue and the beach has a dramatic mountain backdrop. San Vito Lo Capo is a buzzy beach town with lots of restaurants and shops, but be forewarned – the beach get very crowded in the summer. That said, this town is worth a day or two, so you can get a nice sunbath and some rest before continuing your trip.
San Vito Lo Capo offers a great variety of seafood restaurants, including Rais and Crik e Crok. Interestingly enough, the most popular dish in San Vito lo Capo is seafood cous cous, a remnant of the period of Arab rule.
A cute and affordable family-run place to stay in San Vito Lo Capo is Hotel Piccolo Mondo – they have great service, a location close to the beach and a nice terrace on which you can have a sundowner aperitive overlooking the sea.
