This month, I would like you to join me on a virtual trip to Sicily, a region in Italy that is rich in culture, history, nature and – of course – food and wine. Rob and I spent 2 weeks exploring this fascinating island in June 2018. I must confess that 2 weeks are not enough to enjoy the amazing wonders and incredible food that this island offers.
The best way to discover Sicily is by car, which will give you independence and allow you to wander off the beaten track. Though I must confess, driving on some of the small roads was a challenge for Rob. The best way to travel around Sicily is to make a loop around the island.
We decided to start in Taormina and drive along the coast until we reached Cefalu, covering ¾ of the island, with many stops in between.
Over the next 4 weeks, I will cover the various parts of our trip, and hopefully provide you with valuable insights about the food, the must-see sites, some secret spots that created special memories for me. I will also give you some recipes on some special Sicilian dishes. In Part 1, we will travel to Taormina, Mt. Etna and Syracuse, and then we learn to make Sicilian Arancini. Let’s discover Sicily!
Taormina
Taormina is well-known for its beaches and chic hotels and villas, and was very popular in the 60s among Hollywood actors. While Taormina is probably the most glitzy town in Sicily, it is still worth spending 2 full days to lose yourself in its ancient streets and beautiful ruins. The most famous site in Taormina is the Greek Theater, where you will enjoy some of the most breathtaking views of the Ionian Coast while being surrounded by 2,300 years of history! Try to time your visit during off-peak hours so you can enjoy this site before or after the throngs of tourists arrive.
There are 2 sites in Taormina that are a bit off the beaten path that I suggest you explore. The Naumachie is a well preserved ancient Roman wall and cistern, and is located on a cute side street off the main road of Taormina. Another hidden treasure is Villa Comunale, a peaceful park with beautiful gardens where you can enjoy a lovely stroll. And for a snack during your day, be sure to try the brioche with pistachio gelato Sicily is famous for its gelato, and for its pistachios as well. The brioche with pistachio gelato is a kind of ice cream sandwich – not a light snack, but you are on holiday so enjoy la dolce vita!
After a day of sightseeing, I recommend a classic aperitivo at the Hotel Metropole.
Metropole Hotel, which has beautiful views, tasty snacks and yummy cocktails. For dinner, we really enjoyed our meal at the restaurant on the terrace of the Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo. While it is a bit pricey, the sea views and food are really quite an experience. In particular we enjoyed the raw fish platter (with sea urchin) and the tortellini filled with cacio pepe over a tartare of raw red shrimp. Raw sea urchin and raw red shrimp are 2 of the most particular ingredients in Sicily and you will find them served at many restaurants. While raw sea urchin and raw red shrimp might not be for everyone given their strong tastes, if you like these types of delicacies then you will LOVE them in Sicily!
Mt. Etna
Mt Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe and can be seen from many part of Sicily. The area surrounding is lovely to visit for its nature, wines and small towns. This area is worth visiting for 1-2 days. We were planning to do a ½ day hiking tour, though to Rob’s dismay (and my joy…) we showed up a few minutes late and missed the last tour departure. Instead we had the opportunity to drive around the forest and walk around the lava rocks. We also visited Randazzo, a cute and underrated town where you can admire 3 beautiful churches and take a stroll along the main street Via Degli Archi.
Etna is famous for both red and white wines, so we visited a few vineyards (be careful – many are closed on Sundays!) and ended our day at Vini Gambino, where we had a wine tasting and enjoyed some great food, including arancini. In addition to taking home some wine, consider trying the area’s famous pistachios, oil and honey.
Syracuse
Layer after layer of history – Greek, Medieval, Baroque – you will need at least 2 full days to fully appreciate the beauty and history of Syracuse. We spent 1.5 days in Syracuse, and I regret not making it 3 days.
Intriguing Ortygia, the old town, has lovely alleys and piazzas that you can just wander. This is the home of the Piazza del Duomo and its pearl, the Duomo. Be sure to also check out the Ipogeo, a subterranean tunnel that will bring you to the sea. As you wander around the Jewish Quarter in Ortygia, slip into the Jewish Bath, an interesting historical site that also gives a respite from the heat. A great place for lunch is Fratelli Burgio, a casual spot near the Old Market. This restaurant is casual market-style place where you can pick up some edible souvenirs to take home, and they also have an online store.
A street in Ortygia A street in Ortygia A street in Ortygia
The other part of Syracuse is the Mainland – not as picturesque as Ortygia but it has some must-see sites, the most famous of which is the Parco Archeologico Della Neopolis. Here you will find ancient Greek ruins including the biggest Greek theatre in Sicily (the second largest worldwide).
You will not be at a loss for dinner options in Syracuse, particularly as you stroll around Ortygia. I also recommend staying in this area – we stayed at Henry’s House Hotel, a super charming 17th century palazzo with a great terrace that overlooks the sea. This is also a great spot for a morning yoga session and pre-dinner drinks.